If you're standing in your backyard right now trying to figure out whether to build a wood deck or composite deck, you're probably feeling torn.
Both options promise something different—wood says "natural and affordable," while composite says "maintenance-free and long-lasting." But the truth? It's way more complicated than that.
After nearly three decades of building and repairing decks, we've seen the best and worst of both materials.
We've watched homeowners celebrate their choices and regret them just as hard. And what we've learned is that neither one is universally "better"—it depends entirely on your situation, your climate, and what kind of maintenance headaches you're willing to accept.
TL;DR: What is Better, Wood or Composite Decking?
Here’s what 28 years of building decks taught us when choosing between wood and composite decking:
Wood decking is better for your home if you're:
- On a tight upfront budget
- In a dry or cold climate
- Willing to maintain annually
- Want to walk barefoot safely
- A DIYer building it yourself
Composite decking is better for your home if you're:
- In a humid, rainy, or coastal region
- Someone who hates maintenance
- Okay paying $25,000+ upfront
- In Southeast, South, or Pacific Northwest
- Looking for hands-off durability
Table of Contents
- Cost: Is it cheaper to build a wood deck or composite deck?
- Heat: Is Composite Hotter Than Wood?
- Safety: Which Is More Slippery When Wet, Composite or Wood Decking?
- Durability: Which Warps More, Composite or Wood Decking?
- Rot: Which Develops Mold Faster, Wood or Composite Decking?
- Repairs: Which Decking Is Easier to Repair, Composite or Wood?
- Appearance: Which Fades More Over Time, Composite or Wood Deck Boards?
- Installation: Is composite or wood harder to install?
- Fasteners: Which Decking Screws Are Best for Composite and Wood Deck Boards?
Cost: Is it cheaper to build a wood deck or composite deck?
A wood deck is cheaper to build than a composite deck upfront. But over 20 years with maintenance costs factored in, composite often ends up being the more affordable choice in humid climates.
Everyone talks about cost, but most people only look at the sticker price when they walk into the store. That's a big mistake.
Initial Material & Installation Cost Breakdown
Right now in 2025, here's what you're actually paying:
- Pressure-treated wood: $3 to $6 per square foot
- Composite (WPC): $5 to $14 per square foot
- PVC (like Azek): $12 to $22 per square foot
- Tropical hardwood (Ipe): $10 to $20 per square foot
So if you're building a 320 square-foot deck, you're looking at roughly $18,000 for pressure-treated wood versus $25,000+ for composite. On day one, wood is the cheaper option.
The Real Cost: What Happens Over 20 Years
We had a contractor client who was frustrated with composite decking. He felt that the material expands and contracts too much, and once it's damaged, you're stuck with it—it's not fixable. He pointed out that composite gets too hot, becomes slippery when wet, and tends to sag. His take? You could pay a quarter of the price for cedar and replace it in 20 years, and you'd come out ahead.
Over the next two decades, here's what you're actually spending:
Wood Deck (20-year cost):
- Initial installation: $18,000
- Annual maintenance (staining, sealing, power washing): ~$500/year × 20 = $10,000
- Repairs and rot fixes: ~$2,000
- Total: ~$30,000
Composite Deck (20-year cost):
- Initial installation: $25,000
- Annual maintenance (cleaning, occasional chemical treatment): ~$50-100/year × 20 = $1,500
- Board replacement or repairs: ~$1,000
- Total: ~$27,500
The break-even point hits around year 7 to 10. After that, composite starts looking like the cheaper choice—even though you paid more upfront.
Hidden Costs People Don't Talk About
With wood, you're not just paying for stain:
- Annual power washing
- Rot repairs (can be expensive if the frame gets damaged)
- Possible beam replacement
- Stains, sealers, and labor
With composite, watch out for:
- Mold and mildew treatment chemicals (specialized cleaners)
- Safety materials if the deck gets slippery (anti-slip tape, boards, sand)
- Board replacement (individual boards cost $100-200 each)
- Fastener replacement if standard screws rust
Heat: Is composite hotter than wood?
Composite gets way hotter than wood in the sun. You can burn your feet on dark composite, but wood stays cool enough to walk on barefoot.
Let's talk about something most marketing materials gloss over: the heat issue.
There's a story that haunts us in the deck industry. In a hot climate like northern Arizona, with an ambient temperature of just 75°F outside, a small child stepped onto a composite deck and screamed in agony. The emergency room visit confirmed it: a burn on the child's foot. The ambient temperature was 75°F. The deck surface? Well beyond what skin could handle.
This isn't an edge case. This is physics.
How Hot Does A Composite Deck Get?
When the sun hits a composite deck directly, the surface temperature climbs dramatically:
- Dark composite (mocha, charcoal): 150°F–160°F in direct sun
- Medium composite (brown, gray): 140°F–150°F
- Light composite (tan, cream): 135°F–145°F
- Capped PVC with "cool" technology: 125°F–135°F
For context, human skin starts to burn at about 118°F. Most composites blow right past that.
Plastics have high thermal mass and low conductivity. Imagine a dark plastic toy left in the sun—it gets searingly hot. That's your deck.
We've worked with families who discovered that when composite deck boards get hot, children need to wear shoes outside. If there's been rain or morning dew, the surface becomes slippery on top of being hot.
Wood Deck Stays Cool
Wood is naturally insulating. A pressure-treated or cedar deck stays around 105°F–115°F in the same conditions. That's significantly cooler—20 to 30 degrees.
We've had clients in sunny climates choose light-colored wood decking specifically to keep temperatures manageable. Natural or light finishes stay comfortable underfoot year-round.
Which Is Better for Barefoot Use?
Composite: Not suitable in summer without shoes. Even light colors cause discomfort quickly.
Wood: Safe for barefoot use year-round. Significant advantage for families who want that freedom.
How to Reduce Deck Temperature
For composite:
- Choose the lightest color available (reduce temps 20–30°F)
- Install a shade structure (pergola, shade sail: $500–$3,000)
- Improve ventilation under the deck
- Use area rugs or temporary shade
For wood:
- Same shade structures help
- Wood naturally sheds heat better
Safety: Is composite or wood more slippery when wet?
Composite gets slippery as ice when it's wet. Wood gets slippery too, but you can actually clean it and get the traction back.
Composite decks get noticeably slippery when wet. If you live anywhere it rains or snows, this matters a lot.
Why Composite Gets Slippery
Plastic surfaces repel water. That's a design feature (prevents water absorption), but it creates a safety problem. Water beads up and sits on the surface, forming a slick layer. In winter, that water freezes into an almost invisible sheet of ice.
We've had clients report that when composite decks experience rainfall or morning moisture, the surface becomes noticeably slippery. Some families noted that their children have slipped, creating safety concerns.
Does Wood Get Slippery?
Wood gets wet too, but the grip is different. Wood's grain structure and porous nature create natural traction. Water soaks into the surface rather than sitting on top. You can power wash it and actually get the grip back.
Safety Implications & Solutions
Slip-and-fall injuries on composite decks have led to lawsuits. If you have elderly relatives, young children, or guests, or live in a rainy climate, this matters.
For composite: Anti-slip tape (visible, needs replacement), sand/grit (rough appearance), or salt (damages surface)
For wood: Power wash regularly, apply grip sealer (optional), natural grain provides traction
In cold climates: Composite + ice = skating rink. Wood + ice = slippery but manageable with salt/sand.
Durability: Does composite or wood warp more?
Composite warps much more than wood and you can't fix it once it warps. Wood warps gradually and you can sand it back down.
Both materials move. The question is how much, how predictably, and whether you can do something about it.
How Composite Decks Warp
Composite and PVC boards expand and contract dramatically with temperature changes. When a 20-foot PVC board gets hot, it can expand nearly 3/8 of an inch lengthwise. The board pushes against joists and fascia. If it can't move freely, it buckles, warps, or "snakes" (waves side-to-side).
We've seen composite boards installed with proper spacing that still warped within a single season due to thermal cycling. This is inherent to the material, not poor installation.
Do Wood Decks Warp?
Yes, wood decks warp, but differently. Wood expands and contracts mainly with moisture changes, not heat. A wet summer makes it swell; a dry winter makes it shrink. The movement is gradual and expected. Most importantly, you can sand it back out.
The Critical Difference
Composite: Expands 16x more than wood. Once warped, there's no fix. You live with it or replace the board.
Wood: Gradual, expected, manageable. You can sand it smooth and work with the material's natural characteristics.
Composite also requires tighter joist spacing (12 inches on-center instead of 16 inches) because it's less stiff and bounces more. That means 33% more joists and more cost.
In cold climates: Composite warping is worse. Thermal cycling creates constant stress on fasteners. Boards buckle.
In warm climates: Both can warp, but composite's warping is more severe and you can't do anything about it.
Rot & Mold: Which develops mold faster, wood or composite?
Composite gets mold inside the material where you can't reach it. Wood gets surface mold you can clean right off with a pressure washer.
Here's a marketing myth: "Composite doesn't get mold because it's not wood." Wrong. Composite gets mold—just in a way that's harder to deal with.
Composite Decking Mold Growth
Composite is made from wood fibers (flour) bonded with plastic. If the plastic cap is pierced or if water gets into the core, the wood fibers become food for mold.
Mold grows inside the composite structure, feeding on wood sugars in the core. We've had clients discover that even with regular power washing, mold keeps coming back because it's rooted deep within the material. In wet climates like the Pacific Northwest, mold becomes a recurring headache rather than a one-time fix.
Does Wood Get Moldy?
Yes. Wood gets algae, moss, and surface mold, especially in humid or shaded areas.
Key difference: You can pressure wash wood and it actually comes clean. The mold sits on the surface and comes right off. It might return in a year or two, but it's manageable with annual cleaning.
Cleaning Comparison
Composite: Mold grows faster, harder to eliminate. Surface cleaners remove visible growth, but the roots stay in the core. Comes back in 6 months to a year. High-pressure water damages the plastic cap, so you have to use lower pressure + specialized chemicals + longer drying time.
Wood: Slower mold growth, easier to eliminate. Pressure washing actually works. Annual cleaning is genuinely low-effort.
Repairs: Is composite or wood easier to repair?
Wood scratches and dents come right out with a sander. Composite scratches are permanent—you're stuck with them or replacing the whole board.
Composite is harder to fix when things go wrong.
Damage Comparison
Composite: Scratches are permanent. You can't sand them out or hide them. Once the protective cap is scratched, the inner core is exposed, absorbs water, and degrades. We've worked with homeowners who discovered that damaged composite sections required full board replacement ($100-200/board). Color matching is nearly impossible if the deck was installed years ago.
Wood: Small scratches and gouges? Sand them smooth, fill if needed, and refinish. Much cheaper than composite. A board costs $30-100, not $200.
Repair Costs Over 20 Years
Composite:
- Warped board replacement: $200–$300 per board
- Color-match issues: Time-consuming or impossible
- Total accumulated: $2,000–$5,000
Wood:
- Rot repair (spot): $100–$500
- Rotted board replacement: $50–$150
- Cosmetic refresh (sand/stain): $500–$2,000
- Total accumulated: $1,000–$3,000
Reality: Composite has fewer biological failures (no rot) but more warping and damage issues. Wood has more frequent maintenance, but repairs are cheaper and easier.
Appearance: Does composite or wood fade more over time?
Composite fades in blotchy patches and you're stuck looking at it forever. Wood fades evenly and you can stain it again whenever you want.
How your deck looks in 5, 10, or 20 years matters.
Composite Appearance Over Time
New composite looks uniform and attractive. Problems start around year 3-5:
- Fading: Uneven fading in direct sun vs. shaded areas. Looks old and cheap.
- Mold staining: Dark spots accumulate despite cleaning.
- Scratches: Marks don't disappear. Deck looks worn.
The problem: You can't refinish composite. What you get is what you're stuck with forever. We've had clients discover that while the structure held up, the visual appeal declined significantly with no way to restore it.
Wood Appearance Over Time
New wood is beautiful—natural grain, warm color, authentic character. Over time, untreated wood weathers to silvery gray (loved by many, disliked by others).
Key difference: You can refresh it whenever you want. Power wash, sand, and re-stain every 5-10 years to bring it back. That's customization—change colors, adjust tone, keep it looking how you want.
Natural vs Plastic
Composite looks like plastic (because it is). Wood looks natural, warm, inviting, and timeless.
Installation: Is composite or wood harder to install?
Wood installation is straightforward and something a DIYer can handle. Composite needs precision, special fasteners, and you really should hire a professional.
Installation difficulty is one of the biggest differences between these materials.
Wood Installation Is Straightforward
Wood decking is relatively straightforward, even for DIYers. You can cut boards with standard tools, fasten with basic screws, and if you make a mistake, you can sand it out or replace a board without major headaches.
Basics:
- Cut boards to length
- Fasten with corrosion-resistant screws (304 stainless or galvanized)
- Space joists at 16 inches on-center
- Material doesn't move dramatically with temperature
Wood is forgiving because you're mainly dealing with moisture-driven movement, which is gradual and predictable.
Composite Installation Needs Precision
Composite and PVC boards expand and contract dramatically with temperature changes—PVC expands 16 times more than wood. This creates an engineering challenge requiring precision.
Challenges:
- Temperature/gap calculation: Cut in 85°F heat? Leave 1/16" gap. Board shrinks 1/4" in winter. Gap becomes huge. Cut in 40°F cold? Gap wide? Board warps in summer heat.
- Joist tape: Mandatory (not optional). Protects the $15,000 frame from $3,000+ water damage.
- Lock & Float fastening: Requires a specific strategy using 316 stainless steel (not standard coated screws).
- Tighter joist spacing: 12 inches on-center (vs. 16 for wood) = 33% more joists and cost.
Professional installation cost: Wood ($50-80/sq ft) vs. Composite ($75-150/sq ft). The higher cost reflects complexity. One wrong gap calculation and your deck warps permanently.
DIY Considerations
Wood: Achievable for someone with basic carpentry skills.
Composite: Possible but risky. You need to understand thermal expansion and follow manufacturer instructions precisely.
Fasteners: Which decking screws are best for composite and wood deck boards?
Use stainless steel fasteners for both decks. Coated screws rust out and fail way too fast—especially with composite, where the board movement puts extra stress on fasteners.
This might be the most overlooked decision when building a deck, but it's absolutely critical.
Why Fastener Choice Matters
Here's what most people don't realize: the material you use to attach your boards matters more than you'd think. Your deck boards move constantly—especially composite, which expands and contracts with temperature. That movement puts stress on the fastener. Use the wrong screws and they'll fail long before your deck does.
The shear force from board expansion is no joke. When a 20-foot composite board expands and contracts, it's pushing with hundreds of pounds of force on the fastener head. A brittle coated screw snaps under that stress. A ductile stainless steel screw bends slightly and survives the cycle, year after year.
Standard Coated Screws: Why They Fail Fast
Those bargain deck screws at the hardware store? They have an epoxy coating. Sounds good until you actually drive them. The coating chips during installation. Water finds the bare metal underneath. Rust starts immediately.
In coastal areas or wet climates, standard coated screws rust and fail within 1–5 years. You're looking at loose boards, squeaking, and fasteners that snap right off when you try to tighten them.
We've had clients call us two years after installation because they can hear the fasteners snapping as the boards move. That's the coated screws giving up.
Carbon Steel vs. Stainless: The Real Difference
Carbon Steel (Coated):
- Rusts quickly, especially in salt spray
- Brittle—snaps under shear stress from board movement
- Fails within 5-10 years
305 Stainless:
- Better corrosion resistance than coated
- More ductile—bends with board movement
- Good for general outdoor use
316 Stainless (Marine Grade):
- Maximum corrosion resistance thanks to molybdenum content (2-3%)
- Survived 3000+ hours of salt spray testing with no rust
- Ductile enough to flex with thermal expansion
- This is the standard within 20 miles of saltwater
Fastener Specs for Different Climates
Coastal Areas (within 20 miles of salt water):
- Use 316 stainless steel only
- 304 stainless will rust in about 30 days in salt spray
- This is non-negotiable
- Cost premium: ~$150–$250 extra for an average deck
Wet/Humid Regions (Pacific Northwest, Southeast, Midwest):
- 316 stainless is highly recommended
- 305 stainless is acceptable if budget is tight
- Coated screws will fail prematurely
Dry Regions (Southwest, parts of Mountain West):
- 305 stainless is fine
- Coated screws might last longer, but why risk it?
Cold Climates (freeze-thaw cycles):
- Stainless is essential
- Freeze-thaw stress plus thermal expansion creates constant movement
- Coated screws fail faster here too
The Cost-Benefit of Going Stainless
Here's the pitch we give every client: Your deck might last 30 years. Coated screws last 5–10 years. That's a mismatch. When your fasteners fail, you're looking at $3,000+ in labor just to re-screw the deck, plus finding matching plugs if they're visible.
Upgrading to 316 stainless costs about $150–$250 extra on an average deck. For the price of a nice dinner out, you're insuring your deck against fastener failure for the entire life of the structure. That's the cheapest insurance you'll ever buy.
Wood vs. Composite: Do Fastener Needs Differ?
For wood: Stainless is still important, but wood movement is more predictable (moisture-driven, gradual). You can get away with 305 stainless.
For composite: Stainless is absolutely mandatory. PVC expands 16x more than wood. That creates shear forces that will snap coated screws. 316 stainless is worth the investment because the board movement is so aggressive.
Wood vs Composite Deck: Know Which Is BEST For Your Home
After 30 years building decks, we know there's no one-size-fits-all answer. Your climate, maintenance tolerance, and budget determine which decking is better for your home.
Wet climates favor composite. Dry climates favor wood. If maintenance sounds like a headache, composite saves you time (but costs more upfront). If you're on a budget and willing to maintain it, then build a wooden deck.
Still torn between wood and composite? Or unsure what decking screws to use? Ask a pro deck builder. For contractors building large spans of decks, get discounts when you buy in bulk.
