Best Roofing Screws for Metal Roofs in 2026: Types, Sizes & Spacing

Metal roofing screws make up less than 1% of your total roof install, but they're the part most likely to fail first. Pick the wrong ones and you'll be back up there in 5 years replacing every single one. We compared every major brand, pulled manufacturer specs, and talked to contractors who've installed thousands of squares of metal roofing to put this guide together.

Key Takeaways (TL;DR)

• The best metal roofing screws for residential and pole barn jobs are ST Fastening's ZXL WoodBinder #10 with a ZAMAC 5 dome cap that shields the EPDM washer from UV and carries a lifetime red-rust warranty. For a more budget-friendly option, the KwikSeal WoodBinder #10 uses the same Micro-Bit point at about $0.07-$0.14/screw.
• The best metal-to-metal roofing screws for steel purlins are ST Fastening's Maxx SteelBinder #12, which self-drills through steel up to 0.210" without point walking. For jobs that need FM or Miami-Dade approvals, Triangle Fastener Corporation's BLAZER HWH is the go-to.
• The best stainless steel roofing screws for coastal and corrosive environments are SFS Bi-Met 300 for the panels (304 SS body with a carbon steel drill point) and Eagle Claw 316 SS wood screws for the substructure underneath.
• The best substructure screws for purlin-to-rafter connections are Simpson Strong-Tie SDS with ICC-ES ESR-2236 approval and 1,430 lbs ASD tension capacity. For coastal substructure, pair Eagle Claw 316 SS screws with Simpson SD Connector SS in stainless connectors.
• When replacing old metal roofing screws, always go one size wider. The ZXL #12 T-17 WoodBinder with Strip-Loc threads is built to grip fresh wood around wallowed-out #10 holes.
• Every metal roof job is different. What you're screwing into (wood or steel), where the building sits (coast, farm, or inland), and how much wind it takes all change which screw you need and how many to put in.

Best Metal-to-Wood Roofing Screws for Residential and Pole Barn

Metal-to-wood screws are the most common type you'll run into. If you're fastening corrugated, R-panel, or PBR panels to wood purlins, plywood, or OSB, these are your options.

ST Fastening ZXL WoodBinder #10 (Top Pick)

The ZXL WoodBinder is the screw contractors who've done thousands of squares keep coming back to. The ZAMAC 5 dome cap completely covers the EPDM washer, so no rubber sees sunlight. That's the key difference between this and every cheaper option.

Ideal for:

• 40-year warranty metal roofs (corrugated, R-panel, PBR, 5V crimp)
• Residential, commercial, and post-frame on wood purlins or solid deck
• Any job where you want the screws to last as long as the panels

Why it's on the list:

• Lifetime red-rust warranty on the ZAMAC 5 dome cap
• Micro-Bit self-drilling point reduces metal shavings and starts clean
• EPDM washer vulcanized to the cap, fully shielded from UV
• 5/16" cupped hex washer head
• Available in dozens of colors to match major panel suppliers
• About $0.10-$0.22/screw (250-count bags)

When to use: New residential metal roofs, re-roofs, and any project where the panel warranty is 30+ years. If you're putting a 40-year roof on a house, this is the screw that matches.

ST Fastening KwikSeal WoodBinder #10 (Best Value)

The KwikSeal WoodBinder uses the same Micro-Bit point technology as the ZXL at a lower price. The EPDM washer is bonded to a flat steel backing instead of tucked under a dome cap, so the rubber edges are exposed to UV. Still a quality screw, just with a shorter seal life.

Ideal for:

• Pole barns, agricultural buildings, equipment sheds
• Budget residential metal roofing
• Any project where you don't need the 40-year look

Why it's on the list:

• 2,900 lbs nominal tensile strength, 1,962 lbs shear
• Micro-Bit point, same as the ZXL
• Bonded EPDM washer (vulcanized to steel)
• 2.5 mil polyester powder coat over zinc + UV inhibitors
• Dozens of color options
• About $0.07-$0.14/screw (250-count bags)

When to use: New pole barn and agricultural metal roofs where the building doesn't need a 40-year screw but you still want professional quality. Also a good pick for shop buildings, carports, and covered structures.

Power Pro (Hillman) #10 x 1-1/2" (Budget Color-Matched)

Available at Lowe's and Tractor Supply. EPDM steel-backed washer, Micro-Bit point, 7+ color options. About $16.98/100.

When to use: Residential DIY jobs where you need color-matched screws and don't want to order online. Works well for small roofing repairs and shed roofs.

Teks #9 x 1-1/2" (Big-Box Pickup)

Available at every Home Depot. Sharp self-piercing point, Climaseal coating. About $15.43/100. No color matching, no dome cap.

When to use: Small projects where you need screws today. Repairs, lean-tos, small shed roofs. Not for a job where you need the screws to last 20+ years.

Best Metal-to-Metal Roofing Screws for Steel Purlins

When you're fastening panels to steel purlins or Z-channels, you need self-drilling screws with a TEK point that can cut through the steel, tap threads, and fasten in one shot.

ST Fastening Maxx SteelBinder #12 (Top Pick)

The Maxx SteelBinder self-drills through steel up to 0.210" thick. The combination 2-and-3 drill point prevents the screw from skating across the purlin, which is a real problem with cheaper screws on sloped surfaces.

Ideal for:

• Commercial metal roofing on steel purlins (16-12 gauge)
• Pre-engineered metal buildings
• R-panel, PBR, and standing seam on steel framing

Why it's on the list:

• Drills through up to 0.210" steel without point walking
• 5/16" cupped hex washer head with EPDM
• 2.5 mil powder coat over zinc + chromate sealer
• Available in #12 panel and #14 stitch sizes
• About $0.10-$0.26/screw (250-count bags)

When to use: Any metal-to-metal roofing application on steel purlins. Match your TEK point to the steel thickness: #2 for panels on light-gauge framing (22 ga), #3 for standard purlins (18-12 ga), #5 for structural steel (1/4"+).

Triangle Fastener Corporation BLAZER HWH (Commercial/FM-Approved)

FM, SDI, and Miami-Dade approved. TRI-SEAL + KALIDA-KOTE coating. Available in 410 SS and 304 SS bi-metal. Quote-based pricing through TFC's 23+ US branches.

When to use: Commercial and pre-engineered metal buildings that need FM Global or Miami-Dade approvals. If the spec calls for FM-approved fasteners, this is where you start.

SFS Impax SD3 #12 (Commercial-Grade)

VistaCoat limited warranty (exceeds 1,000-hour salt spray). Cut washer EPDM. About $0.12-$0.20/screw through SFS distributors.

When to use: Commercial metal roofing where the contractor has an existing SFS supplier relationship. The VistaCoat coating system is one of the better long-life options on the market.

Best Replacement and Oversized Metal Roofing Screws

When your metal roof is leaking at the screws, re-screwing is almost always the right first move if the panels and substrate are still solid. The number one rule: never replace a #10 with another #10. The old hole is wallowed out. You need to go one size wider so the new screw bites fresh wood.

ZXL #12 T-17 WoodBinder (Top Pick for Replacement)

The ZXL #12 T-17 WoodBinder is built for exactly this job.

Ideal for:

• Replacing failed #10 screws on any metal roof
• OSB and plywood substrates where strip-out is a concern
• Roofs that are 15-20+ years old with backed-out or leaking screws

Why it's on the list:

• #12 diameter bites fresh wood around old #10 holes
• Strip-Loc threads grip OSB fibers and prevent strip-out
• Type 17 point (self-piercing, not self-drilling)
• ZXL dome cap for long-term UV protection on the replacement
• 5/16" cupped hex washer head

When to use: Any re-screw job where the original #10 screws have loosened, backed out, or are leaking. About $70 per 250 versus $38 for standard #9 new-install screws. That $32 difference per bag is nothing compared to getting called back.

#14 Hurricane Fastener (Severely Wallowed Holes)

For holes that are too far gone for a #12. The #14 Hurricane Fastener has a 1" oversized EPDM washer that covers the enlarged opening. 3/8" hex drive for more torque control. About $59.95/100.

When to use: Roofs where the original holes have wallowed out to the point that even a #12 won't grip. Also works for high-wind zone retrofits where you need more holding power.

Best Stainless Steel Roofing Screws for Coastal and Corrosive Environments

Stainless steel roofing screws cost more, and you don't need them for a standard inland roof. But if you're within 3 miles of salt water, near chemical plants, or fastening aluminum panels, nothing else will hold up.

SFS Bi-Met 300 (Best SS Panel Screw)

304 stainless steel body bonded to a hardened carbon steel drill point. You get the corrosion resistance of stainless with the drilling performance of carbon steel.

Ideal for:

• Coastal metal roofing within 3 miles of salt water
• Agricultural buildings with chemical exposure (livestock, fertilizer)
• Aluminum panel roofing (300-series SS is required for aluminum)

Why it's on the list:

• 304 SS body won't rust in salt air
• Carbon steel drill point still drills clean, unlike full-stainless screws that can gall
• EPDM washer available
• Premium pricing through SFS distributors

ST Fastening 304 SS WoodBinder #10 (Full Stainless Panel Screw)

The 304 SS WoodBinder is full stainless from head to tip.

Ideal for:

• Environments that need full stainless (no carbon steel anywhere)
• Metal-to-wood coastal roofing

Why it's on the list:

• 1,135 lbs tensile strength, 1,034 lbs shear
• Cupped head design
• Available in 1", 1-1/2", and 2" lengths

Eagle Claw 316 SS Wood Screws (Best SS Substructure Screw)

Eagle Claw 316 marine-grade stainless steel screws are for the structure underneath the panels, not the panels themselves. Eagle Claw doesn't make hex-washer-head EPDM roofing screws. What they make are Type 17 point stainless steel wood screws for purlin-to-rafter connections, batten attachment, and structural framing in corrosive environments.

Ideal for:

• Coastal roof framing within a few miles of salt water
• Agricultural buildings with ammonia or acid exposure
• Any substructure exposed to condensation, salt air, or chemicals

Why it's on the list:

• 316 grade with 2-3% molybdenum for chloride pitting resistance that 304 can't match
• Type 17 point, Torx drive (no cam-out)
• Aggressively threaded, so you get full holding power despite stainless being slipperier against wood than carbon steel
• Pair with Simpson SD Connector SS in stainless connectors for a fully corrosion-resistant system
• Registered contractors get a permanent 10% discount

When to use 304 vs 316: 304 handles most inland and freshwater exposure. 316 is for within a few miles of salt water or near chemical plants. For a deeper breakdown, our guide to 304 vs 316 stainless steel screws walks through the full comparison. Also see best screws for salt water environments for why galvanized fails in marine air.

Best Stitch Screws, Lap Screws, and Trim Fasteners for Metal Roofing

Every metal roof needs more than just panel screws. You also need stitch screws for the sidelap connections, screws for ridge cap and gable trim, and pancake-head screws for flashing.

Sidelap Stitch Screws: #12 x 3/4" KwikSeal or ZXL

Short metal-to-metal screws that hold the upper panel tight against the lower one where they overlap. No purlin behind them. Space them 12"-18" on center along the full length of the lap, 12" OC in high-wind areas.

Why they matter: A lot of guys skip the sidelap stitch screws on low-slope corrugated. That's a leak waiting to happen. Any lap where water can get between panels needs a sealed connection.

Ridge Cap and Trim: Stitch Screws at Every Rib

Ridge cap goes over foam closures at the peak. Fasten through the cap, foam, and into the panel below at every rib, roughly 8"-12" on center. Gable trim screws go along the rake edge at 12"-24" OC depending on wind zone.

Pancake-Head Screws for Flashing

For flashing and drip edge, pancake-head screws (low-profile) like the TFC CONCEALOR sit nearly flush for a cleaner look. Space them 8" from each end of each piece, then 12" on center along the length.

Best Screws for Your Roof's Substructure: Purlins, Rafters, and Framing

Every metal roofing guide talks about panel screws. Almost none of them talk about what's holding the structure together underneath. A $0.15 panel screw means nothing if the structural screw holding the purlin to the rafter lets go.

Simpson Strong-Tie SDS (Top Pick for Structural Connections)

The SDS Heavy-Duty Connector Screw has more code approvals than any other structural screw we've seen.

Ideal for:

• Purlin-to-rafter connections
• Simpson connectors, hold-downs (HDU, DTT2), and column bases
• Structural framing in any metal roof system

Why it's on the list:

• ICC-ES ESR-2236 approved
• 1,430 lbs ASD tension, 800 lbs ASD shear
• 172 lbs/inch withdrawal in Douglas Fir
• Double-Barrier coating handles ACQ preservative-treated lumber
• Available in 316 stainless steel for coastal applications
• Lengths from 1-1/2" to 8"
• 2025 Fastening Systems Technical Guide has the full load tables

When to use: Any purlin-to-rafter connection where you want code-listed load values. Two SDS screws per joint is common practice.

Simpson SDWS Timber Screw (Heavy Structural Connections)

The SDWS Timber Screw replaces lag screws and through-bolts. Its 0.760" washer head spreads the load so it won't pull through the wood. A 5" SDWS through a 2x purlin into a rafter gives 405 lbs shear and up to 590 lbs withdrawal in Douglas Fir. No pre-drilling needed.

When to use: Heavy timber-to-timber connections in the roof system. When you need more holding power than an SDS can give you.

Simpson SDWC Truss Screw (Roof-to-Wall Uplift)

The SDWC Truss Screw can take the place of hurricane ties. One SDWC resists 615 lbs of roof uplift in Douglas Fir. Two screws into a double top plate give 1,135 lbs. For the Florida HVHZ requirement of 700 lbs minimum per connection, you'd need at least two per truss.

When to use: Roof-to-wall connections in wind-prone areas where you want a screw instead of a metal strap.

Eagle Claw 304/316 SS (Corrosive Substructure)

For coastal and agricultural substructure, see the stainless steel section above. Eagle Claw's 316 SS screws paired with Simpson SD Connector SS screws in stainless connectors gives you a fully corrosion-resistant structural system. Eagle Claw's guide on why stainless steel is used in timber construction walks through why SS holds up better in roof framing where constant wind keeps working the fasteners. For tile roofs, their roofing tile guide covers slate, clay, and concrete options.

5 Tips on Choosing the Right Metal Roofing Screws

1. Match the screw to the substrate

Metal-to-wood screws (Type 17 point, coarse thread) go into wood purlins and plywood. Metal-to-metal screws (TEK drill point, fine thread) go into steel purlins. Using the wrong type means either no grip or a snapped screw.

2. Always use EPDM washers, not neoprene

EPDM lasts 2-3x longer than neoprene under UV. Neoprene dries out and cracks in as little as 10 years. If the screws you're looking at say "neoprene," keep looking.

3. Screw into the flat, not the rib

For R-Panel, PBR, and 5-Rib profiles, put screws in the flat where the panel sits against the purlin. The EPDM washer needs a solid surface behind it. Screwing into the rib leaves a void that causes the screw to rock back and forth with thermal expansion until it backs out.

4. Tighten to the right screw spacing for your wind zone

24" OC in the field, 12" OC at eaves and ridge, 6" OC at corners in high-wind zones. ASCE 7-16 says roof corners take nearly 2.8x the wind load of the field. That's why code requires tighter spacing there.

5. Go up one gauge when replacing old screws

Never put a #10 into a #10 hole. The wood is wallowed out. Use a #12 to bite fresh fibers. For severely damaged holes, a #14 rescue screw with an oversized washer covers the enlarged opening.

Choosing the Right Metal Roofing Screw for Your Job

There's no single "best" metal roofing screw. There's only the right screw for the job in front of you. A pole barn in Kansas and a coastal home in Florida need completely different fasteners.

What stays the same across every job: use EPDM washers, not neoprene. Drive screws with a clutch-controlled screw gun. Put them in the flat for R-panel and PBR profiles. Follow the manufacturer's spacing for your wind zone.

And don't skip the substructure. The purlins, rafters, and structural connections hold the entire roof system together.

Screws cost pennies each. Callbacks cost thousands. Buy the right ones.